FAQs – Living Soils

FAQs

FAQ

 

This page contains some of the questions that we have been asked concerning our products and how to use them. If you have a query, reading through this may help - if not, please feel free to contact us via email.

---

QUESTION

How would I use your products with autoflowering strains? 

RESPONSE

We suggest you use our new Grow AUTO & Bloom AUTO products that have been developed specifically for this type of plant and replaces our standard Grow and Bloom, which are for photoperiod plants.

We have developed a Feeding Regime that specifically for auto plants that may be useful.

---

QUESTION

Could you advise me on how I would pre-fertilise the substrate using your Grow or Grow AUTO mix please?

RESPONSE

We recommend thoroughly mixing Grow (or Grow AUTO) with your substrate and watering so its soaking wet. After this, leave it for 2 weeks (at the very least a 10 days) to cook. It should start to cool after this time and won't burn your seeds or  plants. In the meantime, for photoperiod plants as you may transplant your seedling, you could germinate your seed in a separate small pot.

You should thoroughly soak the substrate initially and leave somewhere warm. You don't want the mix to dry out completely so water as though there is a plant in there.

If transplanting, when the seedling is old enough (2/3 weeks with its second set of true leaves) gently transfer it into your pot with the activated growing medium. For seedlings in their final pot we suggest not feeding for 4 weeks or so as there will be plenty of nutrients available.

After this, all our products are top dressings - simply sprinkle on the suggested amount and lightly mix in with substrate and water in. 

---

QUESTION

Can I use water straight from the tap when watering my plants? 

We advise against using water straight from the tap: depending on where you are located, your tap water will contain chlorine or chloramine (or both) - these are chemicals water companies use to kill microbes, and therefore are pretty unwelcome when growing any plants, but especially in a Living Soil.

We recommend using rainwater, reverse osmosis water, or using a water conditioning additive to remove all traces of these chemicals before watering your plants. If you are on a tight budget, we recommend leaving tap water to stand for 24 hours before use to reduce chlorine or chloramine levels.

If your tap water has a ph of around 6.5 that would be perfect; otherwise, you can use ph up or ph down to get it to around this level, if possible. If you can’t, don’t worry!

---

QUESTION

Please can you tell me if your products are similar to a high quality product in the States, called Gaia Green? 

RESPONSE

Sure - yes we are similar in the way that our products are premium organic dry amendments. We use some of the same ingredients but have access to the (more developed) UK horticultural market and therefore also use some more premium/ different ingredients.

Also we are more specialised in that our products are made in small batches and not stored for more than a week before customer dispatch to ensure maximum freshness when delivered to your door.

---

QUESTION

Do I need to water the soil/ coco more than if I was using standard chemical fertilisers? 

RESPONSE

We think that to maintain a healthy microbial life and to enhance nutrient availability for your plant, we would suggest keeping the soil just a little bit wetter than you would otherwise to reduce the chance that the substrate could dry out completely – you still want the top of the substrate to be very slightly damp to the touch.

---

QUESTION

Are your products able to be used as teas? 

RESPONSE

Yes, sure - all our products are usable as tea - many people have had great results with this. For a standard tea, simply mix the recommended dose for your pot size and growing medium with water, stir occasionally and leave for 24-48 hours.

---

QUESTION

Do I need to buy cal mag if using your products in soil or coco?

RESPONSE

You shouldn’t need to purchase any cal mag supplements with our products, but if you are worried about getting a calcium or magnesium deficiency, our Wormcasts are great to use as these contain high amounts of each.

--- 

QUESTION

If growing in winter with lower temperatures should I account for a less effective soil life activity ? Should I consider using heating mats or wires and below what temperature?

RESPONSE

Microbial activity will likely be a bit slower and therefore maybe heat mats would only be a good idea if grow room below something like 15 deg C (although it would seem unlikely your grow room will get that cold!) so would probably not worry about the heat mats too much..

--- 

QUESTION

I have tried using your Grow product and it seems to promote mould growth on the top layer a few days after the initial mix was made? Is this to be expected?

RESPONSE

Sure - it’s a great sign - the mould is actually a type of fungus called ‘mycorrhizae’ and shows that Grow is really working:-) A little more about mycorrhizae, and the value to your plant below:

Mycorrhizae feed by attaching themselves to plant roots, which provide the fungi with sugars from photosynthesis that these darkness dwellers would otherwise be unable to access. In return, the mycorrhizae expand the plant’s root system and help it reach far-away nutrients that would otherwise be unavailable to the plant. Being attached directly to the root also helps nutrients, particularly phosphates, become more soluble for plants.